Practicing curling, frizzing and padding techniques in lesson

This time, I have done the curling, frizzing and padding on my friend's hair rather than using the practice head.

Equipments:

ü  Sectioning clips

ü  Hair pins

ü  Bobby pins

ü  An apron

ü  A paddle brush

ü  Hair tong

ü  Hair crimper

ü  A pad

Step 1: Told ur model that you are going to wash your hands before getting started. Ask the model to put on the apron.

2: Separate the hair into two parts, the top of the hair, use the hair tong to curl them. Before curling it, separate the top part of the hair evenly into two parts which will result a middle parting. Take small pieces of hair and curl it. After finish each curls, secure the shape with a bobby pin.

3: After finished curling the top part of the hair, crimp the back part of the hair using the hair crimper.

4: Measure where you are going to put the padding on the head and if you have found the place you want to place the padding, separate the back of the hair into two parts. Create a plait on the area you want to secure the padding on and plait it horizontally. After that, secure it with bobby pins.

5: Use the bobby pins to pin the pad onto the plait. Then grab and wrap the bottom part of the hair around the pad and put the top part of the hair over so the pad and no gaps will be seen. Secure the hair with hair pins.

 

6: Finally, remove the bobby pins from the curls and you can move around the curls and you can decide where you want to place them.

Before
Model: Mireia Lopez

After

 

Thoughts about the lesson:

I found it very different working on other people’s hair and the practice head. Because my model has nature curly hair, I found it more challenging to do this hairstyle. To improve next time, I should place the padding higher so it will be seen more clearly at the front.

Contemporary Elizabethan Hair (Curls)

http://www.luminarium.org/renlit/elizaphoenix.jpg
The Phoenix Portrait of Queen Elizabeth I
c.1575
By Nicholas Hilliard
Oil on panel

The Phoenix Portrait is a very good example of Elizabeth's iconic red curls. Within the Elizabethan period, curly hair was one of the most common hairstyle for upper class women and it is a symbol of fashionable wealth. The front section of the hair set independently into a series of tight curls and the shape of Elizabeth's hair were perfectly done. During the Elizabethan era, the more curly a woman's hair and the larger it gets, the higher status the woman is.

 

Contemporary Example of Elizabethans Curly Hair

 

Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall/ Winter 2013

 

The curly hair reminds me of Marc Jacobs 2013 Fall/ Winter catwalk. The voluminous curls add a femininity style to the whole look. Also, it links to the Elizabethans because Queen Elizabeth I's curly hair is the ideal beauty during the Elizabethans era. I like the texture of the voluminous curls and I think it links heavily to the Elizabethans because of how they have large hairstyles. The images below look frizzy as the curls themselves have been teased out to get more volume and result a more wild appearance.


http://www.vistelacalle.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Rizos-voluminosos1.jpg

http://www.trendingwithtressie.com/uploads/1/8/7/8/18787148/8355150_orig.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/236x/54/13/0f/54130fcf4421658fb7527491b908f11a.jpg

 

 



Contemporary Elizabethan Hair (Frizz)

A Public Relations Goddess
1570s Queen Elizabeth I
1533-1603
an unknown artist
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8AmA4rfiyLII_CqIaH4idkXTUke5RZhJXlDOtqaXo9Ujp2QtThDulUycuGPCOJoLgWRiA484B7IgkQ-EJ_1aB-7gN8ucdRKFQv4lOSdXq4FJQspp2m-4UfVff4NoBcj1OCpYOdIYWOH1U/s640/1570s+Queen+Elizabeth+I+1533-1603+unknown+artist.bmp

On above is a portrait of Queen Elizabeth I and is an example of frizzing hairstyle. In the portrait, Elizabeth I's hair was secured with a French hood and also features the high forehead.

 

Contemporary Examples of Frizzing Hairstyles

 

Vivienne Westwood’s Anglomania Spring/Summer 2011 collection

http://www.footluxe.com/gallery/2011/04/Vivienne-Westwood-Anglomania-Spring-Summer-2011-Collection-01.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvB6Aqh522WdYw6vFx8101nHtannqC010yTnKkiUGlFXVYhOU3dJIszxX4ck4FAyiTyI4K_08zJ0w2zSXQPzbfcBE5Uf1a7NExqC1JGbOUCxwzwXlxhNRKwKV1ERzOwGMtHb_3HkFyUpc8/s1600/0001-vivienne-westwood-anglomania.jpg

https://artfashionandhim.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/vivienne-westwood-spring-2011.jpg

The images above are the contemporary examples of the Queen Elizabeth I's portrait that I've researched on this post. The models from Vivienne Westwood's Anglomanis Spring/ Summer 2011 collection, feature big dishevelled frizzing hair. The model's hair are an example of crimping hair after brushed out to create frizzy curls and this style gives more volume to the hair.

 Vivienne Westwood's Spring/ Summer 2013 collection
 

http://www2.pictures.zimbio.com/gi/Vivienne+Westwood+Runway+Paris+Fashion+Week+YdO9PpCiJRCl.jpg
 

http://www.hautediary.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Vivienne-Westwood-Gold-Label-SS13-Collection-16-366x550.jpg

 

http://ris.fashion.telegraph.co.uk/RichImageService.svc/imagecontent/1/TMG9576292/p/2_2355199a.jpg

http://media.nowfashion.com/uploads/shows/vivienne-westwood/2012/paris/spring-summer/ready-to-wear/2012-09-29/2731/public/10495//photos/2012-09-29-17-20-01-vivienne-westwood-5628.jpg
 

http://images.vogue.it/imgs/sfilate/collezioni-primavera-estate-2013/vivienne-westwood/collezione/HQ/00440h.jpg

On above, I have researched more frizzy hairstyles and it is another collections from Vivienne Westwood. These frizzy hairstyles look dramatic and reminds me of a beehive hairstyle. I like how the hair were shaped into a dense structure and the last image features the high forehead which links to the Elizabethans. They uses large padding to add height to the overall hairstyle which also found in many Elizabethans portrait as well.

 

Experimenting with the shape of the hair- creating a heart shape

Equipments:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

• A comb
• A tail comb
• Sectioning clips
• Hair pins
• Bobby pins
• Two pads
• Hair crimper

 

Step 1: First, comb the hair and make sure no tangles in the hair.

 

2: Use the tail comb and divide the hair from the middle into two parts.

 

3: Divide the hair into sections and crimp the hair using the hair crimper.

 

4: After that, measure where you want to place the pad on the head. If you have found where you want to place the pad, create a plait there and use bobby pins to secure the plait on the head. By creating a plait, this will help to secure the pad so it will not move around when you are creating the hair shape. Place the pad horizontally on top of the plait and secure it will bobby pins.

 

5: Put the bottom bits of the hair over the pad and use hair pins to secure it. After that, place the top bits of the hair over so you will not see the pad. Again, secure the hair with hair pins.

6: Do the same for the other side of the head and after that, you will get a nice heart shape hair!

 

 

 

Thoughts about the lesson:

In order to improve next time, I should position the pad higher so the heart shape of the hair will be seen more clearly.

Experimenting with Elizabethans hairstyles (Curls and Frizz)

Curls and Frizz

Equipments:

 

·         A tail comb

·         A comb

·         Bobby pins

·         Sectioning clips

·         Hair Tongs

·         Hair Crimper

Step 1: To achieve the Elizabethans’ curls, I have used the hair tongs. Set the hair tongs for heat 25 while for damaged hair for 15.

2: Divide the hair further depending on how much curl you want. Grab small pieces of hair and place the tongs halfway down the hair and start to turn the hair in the direction of the curl. Remember to hold the tongs vertically and make sure to get the hair all the way to the ends when curling it.

3: Wait for around 12 seconds and release the clamp slowly from the hair. Do not fully release the clamp, but release it by clamping downwards. Use a bobby pin to secure the shape.

4: Repeat the process and after curling all the hair, remove the bobby pins. The photo below is what it looks like after removed the bobby pins.

After that, I have divided each curl into two and it allows more curls and volume.

Frizz

Step 1: In order to achieve the frizzy hair, I have used the hair crimper to help me. Divide the hair further depending on how much hair u want to frizz in one time. Grab pieces of hair and hold the hair crimper on the hair for around 5 to 10 seconds.

2: The photo below shows what it look like after crimping the hair.

Then I have used the comb to brush the hair and the photos from below shows what it looks like.

You can see after brushing the hair with the comb, the hair got more volume and it gives nice patterns and finish on the hair.
 

Zig Zag Curls (Weaving the hair with hair pins)

Equipments:

• Hair Straightener
• Hair pins
• Hair clips
   

Step 1: Start from the top parts of the hair. Grab small pieces of hair and put it in the end of the hair pins.

2: Then, put the hair out and in and out the hair pins to create the zig zag curls (it’s like weaving). Continue with the process until u have finished. Use a bobby pin to secure the end parts of the hair.

3: After that, use the hair straightener and crimp the hair for around 10 seconds each time.

4: Remove the bobby pin and the hair pin carefully and it should look like what I’ve done in the photos on below.

 

On the left, I have separated the curls and it gives more volume to the hair compare to the curls that I’ve done on the previous step.  

Elizabethans Project - Practice braiding the hair

French Braid with Ribbon
During the 16th to 17th century, braiding hair with ribbon had become common. The plait was one of the Elizabethan hairstyle and it was created for the purpose of hygiene and also with the benefits of appearance. During the Elizabethans era, it became popular for pearls, jewels, ribbon and lines of lace to be set into the plaits. The lace would be plaited through the hair, wrapped and tied together to hold the hair into a bun shape (this helped the hair to be easily covered by a Caul or other types of hats).

Hilleke-de-roy and Four of Her Orphans, Unknown artist, 1586 ( the child was in the process of braiding her hair and the ribbon was braided with the hair as well)

Market Scene, Joachim Beuckelaer, 1563 (The ribbon was braided through the hair)

Equipment Used:

• Paddle Brush
• Hair bands
• Ribbon
• Hair clips and pin

I have done French braid from each side of the hair and after that, I have used hair clips to secure the end bits of the French braid into the hair.

Then, I have put the ribbon into the French braid by using a hair pin

 

Symbolism Within Queen Elizabeth I's Portraits

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Elizabeth_I_Rainbow_Portrait.jpg
The Rainbow Portrait of Queen Elizabeth I

c.1600-1602

Attributed to Issac Oliver (1556-1617)

Oil on canvas

127 × 99.1 cm (50 × 39 in)

I found this portrait very interesting as you can see there are eyes and ears drew on the cloak and this symbolise that Elizabeth I sees and also hears what's happening and what's going on in her kingdom (wars). On her sleeve, it is decorated with serpent which is a symbol of wisdom. There is a heart-shaped ruby within the serpent's mouth and the ruby presents Elizabeth I's heart. The reason why the ruby (Elizabeth's heart) is in the serpent's mouth is because it symbolise how Elizabeth's heart was controlled by her wisdom. Elizabeth's right hand holds an image of a rainbow and it symbolise a latin phrase ' Non sine sole iris' and in English is 'No rainbow without the sun' which presents there will be peace as long as Elizabeth I rules the kingdom. The dress is decorated with spring flowers which allows Elizabeth to portray Astraea.

The rainbow portrait was drawn when Elizabeth was about 60 years old and as you can see, she still looks very young and ageless which shows her image of being a 'Fairy Queen'. The crescent shaped jewel that Elizabeth wore around the neck which represents goddess of the moon, symbolise feminine authority within the portrait. On this portrait, Elizabeth has got curly frizzy ginger hairstyle and the hair was half up and half down (maybe to show her virginity). The hairstyle was highly decorated with jewels such as pearls to show purity and wealth. She also wears a clown to show royalty and power.

http://www.gogmsite.net/_Media/1585-elizabeth-ermine-portr-2.jpeg
The Ermine Portrait of Queen Elizabeth Ic.1585
By Nicholas Hilliard

Elizabeth I likes black, white, red and gold colour because it symbolise her status. The ermine on the portrait is a symbol of royalty and chastity and in the portrait, the ermine wears a golden crown on its neck which presents purity and majesty. The olive branch that Elizabeth holds symbolise peace and the sword on the table represents justice. The dark background stands out the black and the expensive golden work, beads and gems on the gown that Elizabeth wears in the portrait. Elizabeth wears the 'Three Brothers' jewel which was one of her favourite jewels. It is a gem that made of three diamonds with a triangle shape. Big gowns in Elizabethan era symbolise high status, wealth and also symbol of purity. On this portrait, Elizabeth's hair features a heart shape and middle-parting. The heart shape was created by the use of padding and it was decorated with pearls which shows purity and wealth and she also wear a crown which symbolise royalty.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Metsys_Elizabeth_I_The_Sieve_Portrait_c1583.jpg
Sieve Portrait of Queen Elizabeth
1583
Oil on panel
By Quentin Metsys the Younger

In this portrait, Queen Elizabeth is holding a sieve which symbolise purity and chastity and also presents Elizabeth's image as the 'Virgin Queen'. The black and white colour on Elizabeth clothes emphasise her positions of power and because black fabric and blackwork were so expensive in the Elizabethan era, it also shows the high status and wealth throughout the portrait. On the globe behind Elizabeth on the right, the ships are crossing west which symbolise England's conquest of the New world and the globe is often used in a portrait to show defeated countries or the allies of the British empire.The column in the background of the portrait was adorned with golden imperial crown at it's base which symbolise Elizabeth's majesty. The roundels depict the story of Aeneas and Dido. Queen Elizabeth is often compared to the character of Aeneas because although Elizabeth has been tempted by marriage, but she refuses at the end and being a strong female figure who rules her kingdom. On this portrait, Elizabeth features curly frizzy hair and she wears a elaborately decorated pillow box hat. The pillow box hat was decorated with black, gold and white colour which shows wealth, nobility and power. 

 

http://www.elizabethfiles.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/Elizabeth_I_Armada_Portrait_450x372.jpg
The Armada Portrait of Queen Elizabeth I
circa. 1588
by an unknown artist

This portrait was painted when Elizabeth was around 55 years old and she still looks youthful. She poses powerfully and the big clothes symbolise the wealth, high status and purity. In the portrait, the pearls that Elizabeth wears is Robert Dudley's last gift to Elizabeth and it has a very special meaning to her. The pearls symbolise purity and wealth in the Elizabethan era. This portrait also features the globe as well, like 'the Sieve Portrait'. But this time, Elizabeth's hand is on the globe and her fingers are extending to other parts of the globe which symbolises that Elizabeth's power is far reaching.

The egg shaped object in front of the window symbolise rebirth, fertility, eternal life, prosperity, generosity and union. Outside the windows are the scene where on the left window is the arrival of the Armada and on the right window is the defeat of the Armada. This portrait could also been seen to describe Elizabeth's success at protecting the nation from Spanish invasion. The crown on the left of the portrait symbolise royalty and majesty. The large bows on Elizabeth's clothes symbolise virginity in this portrait. Elizabeth's hair features a heart shape which was done through the use of padding and it is decorated with pearls which shows purity and wealth. She wears a crown to show royalty and power and it is decorated with feather (maybe to show high status). 

Historical research on Elizabethans Hair

During the late sixteenth century, people like to follow Queen Elizabeth I's fashion trend because Elizabeth I was set as the standards of beauty at the English court. Wore wigs and hair pieces are one of the trend that Elizabeth did in her later life and wigs were first introduced to England around 1572. When wigs were not worn, women would use paddings or crimped and curled hairstyles. Frizz and curls were the common hairstyles people wore during the Elizabethan times. Women's hair were large and elaborately constructed but after around 1615, high headdresses were not very fashionable.

Middle parting was popular and for the Elizabethans and if people have a tall forehead, it meant they are intelligent. So,they rolled their hair back into the tight curls which helps to present a bigger forehead. Some people even shaved their hair back up to 3 inches as well.
The central parting and braids were common among women from the lower class.

Hair could be dyed from recipes given in beauty treatises and because Queen Elizabeth had natural red curly hair, the red hair look had been followed by many of the nobility of the Elizabethan era. Shades of blonde hair were also fashionable at their period of time as well, so Upper Class women followed this fashion and might even dye their hair yellow with a mixture of celandine, oil, cumin seed and saffron.
Young women like to keep their hair long and their natural long hair was a sign of virginity.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_I_of_England#mediaviewer/File:Elizabeth_I_in_coronation_robes.jpg
'The Coronation of Elizabeth'
By an unknown artist
Created between 1600 and 1610 copy of a lost original of c. 1559

On above is a portrait of Queen Elizabeth I and the portrait was about the coronation of Elizabeth being the Queen. This portrait features Elizabeth's hair being loosed which symbolised virginity. The long flowing hair was one of the Elizabethans favourite hairstyle for a bride on her wedding day and they would decorate their hair with fresh flowers. Once a woman achieved the married status, she will then need to tie her hair up and covered by some head wears such as coifs and pillowbox hats etc.

Book reference:
- Richard Corson (2005). Fashion In Hair: The first five thousand years. 3rd ed. London: Owen, Peter Limited.
-Aileen Ribeiro (2011). Facing Beauty: Painted Women & Cosmetic Art. New Haven: Yale University Press.
-Richard Corson (2005). Fashion In Makeup: From ancient to modern times. 3rd ed. New York: Peter Owen Publishers.

Elizabethans headwears

The Coif

Married and adult women covered their hair in the 16th century and also into the 17th century. The coif was one of the most important hair coverings at that period of time and it is a white linen fabric that covered the side of the face and help to hide most of the hair. Coif shapes ranged from round to heart-shaped and as the century developed, the coif was set further back which allows more hair to show. It helps to keep the head warm and to keep the hair away from the face which is like from nowadays, people tied up their hair. Coif is important for upper class and skilled women during Elizabethan era because it shows the status and respectability upon a person because upper class women used the coif as decorations on the head. .

Mrs George Evelin, c1595-1610

Pillbox hat

The Pillbox Hat was one of the popular headdresses from the early years of Elizabeth's reign until around 1595. It is a round shaped headdress and people used thick paper or starch to put inside the hat to hold the shape and structure of it. Women might sometimes put feathers into the side of the hats to decorate the hats, add extra fashionable details and also show people their society status.The Pillbox hat was very expensive because it uses a lot of jewels, pearls and blackwork which only affordable to the wealthy. The pillow hat was being used during riding to keep the curls in place. 

Archduchess Maria of Austria & Maria Eleonore,  ca. 1555 (Jakob Seisenegger) (1505-1567)  





Attifet

Attifet was a headdress which is similar to the French hood. It was a wire structured headdress that was ornately decorated and was used to place above the wearers hair as decorations on the head. The Attifet was usually made of a linen or silk fabric which was lightweight and provides a sheer in appearance. The Attifet was decorated with lace and pearls and I found this headdress very interesting as the front section of the headdress dipped in the center to create a nice heart shape appearance and is a very unique headdress which is different from the others .

Elizabeth Anne Walshe in 1589

 

French Hood

 

French Hood was introduced from the French court by Anne Boleyn, the mother of Queen Elizabeth I. The structure of the French hood looks like a half moon slopping away from the face and the edges of it were often decorated with pearls or glass jewels called bilaments. At the back of the headdress was covered with a veil which was used to hide the back of the hair. As the hood style became more and more popular throughout the Tudor period, the style adapted and changed to become a smaller and delicate headdress.

 

Anne Boleyn c1520

 

Caul 

 

A caul was a hair net or snood which was worn by the Elizabethans women. There are pearls and beads decorated on the caul and it helped to cover the hair at the back of the head. It was made of fabric covered by netted cord and it also shows a person positions in society because women from lower economic status could not afford highly decorated Caul. Also, the more the Caul was adorned, the more wealthy the wearer were. The caul was used for the Elizabethans to hold the hair away from the face and is like a hair net from nowadays. Coifs are flat hats were often being worn on top of the caul.



 

Elenora Toledo Portrait in the
16th century, Agnolo Bronzino

Book Reference: -Phyllis G. Tortora and Keith Eubank (2010). Survey of Historic Costume. 5th ed. New York: Fairchild Books.
-Richard Corson (2005). Fashion In Hair: The first five thousand years. 3rd ed. London: Owen, Peter Limited.


Project Brief

My initial thoughts about the first project 'The Redheads and Royalty' is learning the historical backgrounds of the Elizabethans era and research the hairstyles used at that period of time. For this project, I will also research different paintings and texts to understand the various hairstyles, hair colours from the Elizabethan women and looking at how their hairstyles link to their age, class and society status. Before I started to research things in the Elizabethans era, I do know a fact that they like to use pearls on their hairstyles because it was a symbol of purity.
I'm looking forward to this project because I will be designing a hairstyle for myself while my partner will apply the design look on me. Same as my partner, she will be creating her own design and I will apply the look on her. Also, I can't wait to learn new skills about doing hairstyles as I haven't done any work on other people's hair before.